Is St John Bread and Wine, where I enjoyed lunch with my dear mama yesterday. I suspect that I'd enjoy their sister restaurant St John at Smithfields even more but I haven't been there yet so that remains to be seen.
I'm not given to superlatives when it comes to restaurants (probably because I live in Manchester, the biggest city in this country with no Michelin stars - for some excellent analysis on why this is see the May issue of Insider) but yesterday I ate the tangiest horseradish, the freshest sprats, the meatiest duck, the most flavoursome chicken liver, the tenderest pork, the most refreshing celeriac and the butteriest crumble I have ever tasted in my life. All this and it was served in a light, buzzy dining room by personable, unobsequious staff for less than £70.00 for two with wine.
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